Miuccia Prada’s fall collection tonight dealt with women oblivious of fads, brands, red carpets & warnings about taking the extra helping. The figure they imagined was voluptuous, her bust delineated with darts & dimply ruffles, her waist where it naturally belongs & her hips somewhere under pleats.
Sometimes, in a burgundy sweater-and-skirt set or a sleeveless print top & matching slacks, they brought to mind Kim Novak; at others, Madame Tito. The world of women is vast, Ms. Prada appeared to be saying, & not everyone is a teenage runway zombie.
Ms. Prada loves to examine our sentimentality about women & beauty, & in some respects this was her most assertive anti-fashion statement in awhile. Something about these clothes — the matronly dresses, the classic cable-knits — felt so outside current fashion & obsessions as to be but a distant squeal from a 60s fondue party. True, some of the outfits dared you to call them ugly. But the methods of examination have begun to feel dated.
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